Porting and polishing.

Well, I finally got enough play money to get some porting and polishing stuff. Imma do a few SRT heads. The first I am working on right now. After about a month of research I learned ALOT and it turns out there are a lot of people hurting power with this adventure, because they have misconceptions about turbo cars and about intake and exhaust velocity. I have a few people giuding me a bit, but the work is all done by me.

Here's some pictures, because I am big fan of photos. I'll come back and update as I go. All together this project has cost me about $550.00 in supplies, to include the head, tools and consumables. I'm just letting those who are thinking of doing this, its expensive to do it right, or as close to right as possible.

[QUOTE=_Nick_;9764958]Note: I am taking Bob's advice, and I am not porting to the scribed line. Just making it so I can decide on shape and how far to take that shape.

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You think you can port a TB?

Did you review porting advice on eastwood.com? . I was thinking this could be simple, but you may have very good quality supplies.

[QUOTE=_Nick_;9765039]I like that idea, but I'd probably have to have a professional remove them for me. I don't know anything about removing them.

Well, I worked on the head for about 45 mins. I learned alot! I need another outlet. I need to get better lighting too. I experimented with a few handle positions, until I settled on one I liked. I found it is better to hold the chord, and the Makita against my shoulder, that way I can control it better. I made small fast strokes and fast long strokes, kinds like shading the port in with a pencil.

I began with a carbide burr, figuring it would get rid of the casting for me. I quickly realized that it was taking off more material than I was comfortable with, so I went to the cone shaped sanding cartridge. That worked much better. The lighting angle had to be changed a few times. I need a better light. I can see why Bob recommended the GD0800C. Its an amazing tool! Its quieter than I imagined it would be. Its a fantastic tool. I love it already. I used the 80 grit tapered roll, and then the cylindrical roll, and got the feel for them both a bit. I kept them on separate mandrels, as it was easiest to swap without risking damaging the paper.

I'm pretty happy with the results so far. I feel like I am doing it right. This makes Teddy's ears flap. (prevrex will get that one)

I don't like hitting the valve guide. I was careful not too, but its hard to see down there with the tool in the port. You sort of have to feel it out.

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I went to Eastwoods. Their porting advice was more directed at naturally aspirated engines. Our SRT-4's have some unique characteristics that bend the rules of traditional porting and polishing.

Solis, I can port and polish a throttle body, but I can't do the best job. You know who can..... A friend of mine in Calexico. His name is Luis, and he goes by SDK. I can put you in touch with him if you like.

I did on my 2G an experiment only open the exhaust, let me post a 1 o 2 pics, but I was more to learn or at least try to do it by my self.

Contact SDK here. His name is Luis. My friend Edgar is his business partner. His shop is located in Mexicali, not Calexico, that was my mistake.

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He does badass welding too. He's made some custom parts for my friend Steve.

It's so hard to take a good photo of a port. I have been busy on the head this morning. I went a little further then I anticipated toward the edge. I will do my best not to repeat that. It's not beyond the gasket, but its close.

I really only worked one half of this section, to see how it was going to turn out. I like it. Pretty good for my first try?

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did you test the head first to see how much air flow it had so you can look at the results and calculate the hp gained in the blue prints

I did not. I don't have access to a flow bench. It was a stock SRT head, so it would flow whatever CFM it flows from the factory, plus or minus the variance in casting defects.

I have however recently dyno'd the SRT. 384/411 hp/tq. I'm going to put this head on, and dyno at the same place, with the same boost.

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Nice how u did the valve job they are a bitch to get em rigth alot of measurment needed

Yeah. I am going to have the seats cut for +2mm exhaust valves. I am hoping to gain about 20 whp with this head. Just with 2 mods, exhaust valves, and porting and polishing. Its my "budget project." A CNC PnP is $700 plus shipping and core. When this head is said and done it will have cost me about 400 dollars, minus the cost of the head and the cost of the tools.

20 hp is not that bad for 400 bucks